Imagine this: You're wandering through the loud, neon-drenched streets of Shibuya, when suddenly you stumble upon a place like Shizen, where traditional Japanese cuisine gets a modern primal upgrade, cooked over roaring wood fires. Or picture yourself in Marunouchi, where Sezanne is redefining fine dining with a twist that'll make your taste buds do a double-take.
Tokyo isn't just about Japanese cuisine anymore. This city's got layers, my friends. And I'm about to take you on a mouthwatering tour of Tokyo's finest.
Let me tell you about the night I stumbled into culinary nirvana at Sezanne. Tucked away in Marunouchi's glossy Four Seasons Hotel, this place isn't just redefining Japanese fine dining - it's flipping the script entirely.
I'm sitting there, still a bit jet-lagged, when the bread service arrives. Now, I know what you're thinking - bread? In Tokyo? Trust me on this. The house-made sourdough with cultured butter is so good, I almost asked for seconds. Almost. I knew I had to pace myself for the journey ahead.
Chef Daniel Calvert, the mastermind behind this operation, is like a culinary alchemist. His arrival in Japan was such a big deal that Natsuko Shoji, chef and owner of été, one of Tokyo’s best-loved French fine dining restaurants, hosted an exclusive collaboration as a way to welcome Chef Daniel to his new home in Tokyo. Calvert takes French techniques, mashes them up with premium Japanese ingredients, and creates pure gold. Case in point: the Hokkaido uni with fennel and yuzu. It's a dish so perfectly balanced, it could teach a yoga class. Now my puns are bad and you always can't trust my joke judgement, but the food at Sezanne is remarkable. you don't want to come all the way to Japan and miss out on this experience. And I stand by that!
Oh, and the real showstopper? The A5 Kagoshima wagyu beef. I've had my fair share of high-end beef, but this? This was something else. It's seared to perfection, and it practically melts on your tongue. There's a really unique red wine sauce, infused with aged soy sauce, that takes umami to a whole different level.
At Sezanne, the presentation of each dish is a work of art in itself. Chef Daniel Calvert and his team approach plating with the same precision and creativity they bring to the flavors. When your dish arrives, you're first struck by the visual impact. The team uses a variety of custom-made plates and bowls, often in muted tones that provide a perfect canvas for the food. Each element is carefully placed, creating a balance of colors, textures, and heights that's almost too beautiful to disturb.
And let's talk about the actual space for a second, because it's just as impressive as the food. It's perched on the 7th floor of the Four Seasons Marunouchi, and Sezanne's interior is a masterclass in understated luxury. Architect Andre Fu has worked his magic here, creating a dining room that's all clean lines and cool tones. It's minimalist, sure, but far from cold - think soft leather tabletops that you can't help but run your hand over, and subtle nods to Zen rock gardens that'll have you feeling zen before you've even taken your first bite.
But my favorite touch? The Christofle trolley that glides between tables, loaded with five different Champagnes by the glass. It's like a sparkling oasis in a sea of minimalism, adding just the right amount of old-school glamour to keep things interesting.
Now, I'll level with you - Sezanne isn't cheap. But for a special night out? It's worth every yen. Just make sure you book well in advance. This is more than just a meal - it's a benchmark for what Japanese fine dining can be. So, if you're looking for places to eat in Tokyo that'll blow your mind, put Sezanne at the top of your list.
Pro tip: If you can, snag a seat at the counter. You'll get to watch Chef Calvert and his team work their magic up close. It's dinner and a show, Tokyo style.
Alright, let's talk about Sazenka. This place is something else.
In a quiet residential area of Tokyo, Sazenka is where Chinese cuisine meets Japanese hospitality. Chef Tomoya Kawada is the mastermind behind this operation, and he's doing something truly unique here.
Kawada's not your typical chef. He spent years studying Chinese cuisine, language, and culture before opening Sazenka. It shows in every dish. What you get here is Chinese food, but not like any Chinese food you've had before. It's refined, delicate, and infused with a distinctly Japanese sensibility.
The menu changes with the seasons, but there are a few standout dishes that have become Sazenka signatures. The char siu pork is a prime example. Kawada takes this Chinese classic and elevates it to new heights. The meat is melt-in-your-mouth tender, with a perfect balance of sweet and savory. It's the kind of dish that makes you close your eyes and savor every bite.
Then there's the shark fin soup. Now, I know what you're thinking - shark fin? But hear me out. Kawada uses an ethical, sustainable alternative made from gelatin. The result is a soup that captures all the texture and flavor of the traditional version, without the environmental concerns. It's a perfect example of how Sazenka respects tradition while moving cuisine forward.
The wine list here is something special too. It's curated to pair perfectly with the food, featuring both Western and Chinese wines. Don't be surprised if you find yourself sipping on a crisp white from Shandong alongside your dim sum.
Now, let's talk about the space itself. Sazenka is housed in a converted Japanese home, and it feels like you're dining in someone's very elegant living room. The decor is minimalist but warm, with beautiful Chinese art pieces scattered throughout. It's the kind of place that makes you want to linger over your meal.
As for those three Michelin stars? Sazenka earned them in record time, going from one star to three in just two years. It's a testament to Kawada's skill and vision. He's not just cooking great food; he's creating a whole new category of cuisine.
Let's kick things off with a truth bomb: Tokyo isn't exactly a vegan paradise. In a city where fish stock sneaks into seemingly vegetarian dishes, plant-based eaters often find themselves in a culinary minefield. Enter Ain Soph Ginza, a four-story testament to the fact that yes, you can eat vegan in Tokyo, and eat damn well.
Tucked into a skinny building in the posh Chuo-ku district, Ain Soph Ginza isn't screaming its plant-based credentials from the rooftops. Instead, it lets the food do the talking. The first floor hits you with a bakery that'll make you question everything you thought you knew about vegan desserts. Their tiramisu, spiked with local amanatsu citrus and cacao nibs, is the kind of thing that'll haunt your dreams long after you've left Japan.
As you climb the stairs, the vibe shifts. Stone and wood create a zen-like calm, a welcome respite from Ginza's glitz. By the time you hit the fourth floor, with its tatami mats and low tables, you're in full-on traditional Japan mode.
But let's talk about the main event: the food. These guys are playing culinary 4D chess, following Buddhist principles that nix not just animal products, but also garlic and onions. It sounds like a recipe for bland city, but trust me, your taste buds are in for a shock.
The lunch set is a parade of plant-based greatest hits. You've got spring rolls that crackle with freshness, pickled turnips that zing with flavor, and a soy-based "chicken" karaage that's so convincing, you'll be side-eyeing the kitchen for poultry smugglers.
Dinner is where they really flex their creative muscles. The veggie nigiri sushi isn't just good "for vegan food" - it's good, full stop. Each piece is a miniature work of art that proves you don't need fish to make stellar sushi.
In a city that often feels like a carnivore's playground, Ain Soph Ginza is planting a green flag (pun absolutely intended) for plant-based cuisine. Whether you're a die-hard vegan or just veg-curious, this place deserves a spot on your Tokyo hit list. Whether you're a die-hard vegan or just veg-curious, this place deserves a spot on your Tokyo hit list.
Pro tip: Don't miss out on their afternoon tea set. It's a hidden gem that many visitors overlook, focusing only on lunch or dinner. The set includes a variety of plant-based sweets and savory bites, along with your choice of tea or coffee. It's the perfect way to experience the restaurant's creativity in a more relaxed setting, especially if you can't snag a dinner reservation. Plus, it's an ideal opportunity to try their famous vegan tiramisu without committing to a full meal. Just be sure to make a reservation, as the afternoon tea slots can fill up quickly, especially on weekends.
Florilège isn't just another French restaurant in Tokyo. For the past decade, Chef Hiroyasu Kawate has been leading the charge in Japanese-inflected French cuisine that doesn't shy away from its roots.
The open kitchen is the star of the show here. It's like a culinary theater, with chefs working under spotlights, surrounded by dramatic ikebana flower arrangements. You'll have a front-row seat at the ash-grey stone counter, watching as they turn humble ingredients into showstoppers.
Kawate's tasting menu is a rollercoaster of flavors and textures. Take the sardine chaud-froid - it's a masterclass in using every part of the fish. Raw fillets wrapped in shiso leaf sit next to a pate made from the bones, spread on a fluffy blini. It's clever, delicious, and true to Florilège's no-waste philosophy.
Even the most ordinary ingredients get the star treatment here. Daikon radish becomes a work of art, simmered in dashi, wrapped in crispy mochi, and topped with caviar. It's the kind of dish that makes you wonder why no one thought of it before.
The two Michelin stars are well-deserved, but what really sets Florilège apart is its commitment to sustainability. Kawate works closely with local producers, often showcasing ingredients that might otherwise be overlooked.
Here's a heads up: Florilège is moving to Kyobashi next year. So if you want to experience this culinary theater in its original setting, now's the time. It's more than just a meal - it's a glimpse into the future of Japanese-French cuisine.
Pro tip: Arrive a bit early for your reservation to enjoy a drink in the lounge area. Florilège offers a stylish and comfortable lounge where you can start your culinary journey with a carefully crafted cocktail or a glass of champagne. Also, be sure to let the staff know of any special occasions when making your reservation—they often go the extra mile to make your experience unforgettable.
Don't let the relaxed ambiance of Takumi Sushi fool you. Behind the counter, Chef Owana works with the precision of a surgeon and the passion of an artist. His movements are a mesmerizing dance of efficiency and grace, each slice of the knife a testament to years of rigorous training.
The omakase menu here is a journey through the seasons, with each piece of nigiri telling a story of provenance and preparation. You might start with a delicate slice of chutoro, its marbled flesh glistening under the soft lighting. The fish, you'll learn, was hand-selected by Chef Owana at Toyosu Market in the predawn hours, a daily ritual he's maintained for decades.
As you progress through the meal, you'll notice the meticulous attention to detail in every aspect. The rice, a crucial yet often overlooked component of great sushi, is a revelation here. Chef Owana blends three varieties of grain, each carefully selected for its texture and flavor profile, and seasons it with a proprietary blend of vinegars that he's perfected over the years.
One standout dish that I absolutely recommend is the aburi otoro with fresh wasabi and a whisper of soy. The fatty tuna belly is briefly kissed by flame, creating a contrast of temperatures and textures that's nothing short of magical. The freshly grated wasabi, worlds apart from the paste you might be used to, adds a clean heat that cuts through the richness of the fish.
Throughout the meal, you'll find yourself captivated by Chef Owana's quiet explanations of each dish, his passion evident in every carefully chosen word. He might tell you about the small-scale fisherman who caught the day's aji, or the exact number of days the kohada has been aged to achieve its perfect flavor.
The beverage list, curated with the same care as the food menu, offers an impressive selection of sake and wine. Don't miss the opportunity to try one of the rare, small-batch sakes that Chef Owana sources directly from artisanal breweries.
As your meal draws to a close, you'll realize that Takumi Sushi Owana offers more than just exceptional sushi. It's a window into the dedication and artistry that defines the very best of Japanese cuisine, all served in an atmosphere that makes you feel like a cherished guest in a private home.
Pro tip: If you're feeling adventurous, ask Chef Owana about his off-menu specials. He often keeps a few rare or seasonal items that aren't listed on the regular omakase. These might include things like shirako (cod milt) in winter, or maybe some ultra-premium uni he managed to score that morning at the market. Owana-san is pretty modest, so he won't usually offer these unless you ask. But if you show genuine interest, he'll often go out of his way to prepare something special. Just remember, these special items can be pricier than the regular menu, so it's a good idea to ask about the cost upfront.
Ginza Hachigo is a place that's turning the ramen world on its head. It's hidden away in the glitzy Ginza district, and it's not your average noodle joint. It's got a Michelin star, for starters - a rare feat in the ramen game that very few restaurants have achieved.
I can remember my first visit like it was yesterday. The place is sleek and minimalist, a far cry from the usual cramped, steamy ramen shops. But the moment you walk in, that familiar, rich aroma hits you. It's ramen alright, but not as you know it.
Chef Hideki Goto is the mastermind here, and he's not messing around. His shoyu ramen is a bowl of liquid gold. The broth - a mix of chicken, pork, and seafood - simmers for 12 hours. It's clear yet complex, light yet satisfying. The noodles are made fresh daily, with a custom flour blend that gives them the perfect bite.
But it's the details that really blow your mind. The chashu isn't just pork belly - it's kurobuta pork, marinated in Goto's secret sauce and slow-cooked until it melts on your tongue. Even the egg, sourced from a small farm in Ibaraki, has yolks so rich they're practically custard.
I've had a lot of ramen in my day, but that first spoonful at Ginza Hachigo? It was a revelation. Every element played its part perfectly - the velvety broth, the chewy noodles, the melt-in-your-mouth pork. It's ramen, but elevated to an art form.
The noodles are made fresh daily using a custom blend of four different flours, including a high-protein variety that gives them their distinctive texture. As for the chashu, it's made from kurobuta pork belly that's marinated for 24 hours before being slow-cooked for another 6 hours.
All these premium ingredients and time-intensive processes contribute to the higher price point. But here's the kicker - Goto changes his recipe slightly every day based on factors like humidity and temperature, ensuring each bowl is perfectly balanced. It's this fanatical attention to detail that sets Ginza Hachigo apart and makes it worth every yen.
Is it cheap? No. Is it easy to get a seat? Definitely not. But if you're serious about food, about understanding just how far a humble bowl of noodles can be pushed, Ginza Hachigo is a must-visit. If you're a huge ramen fan like I am, you'll find that it's more than just a meal - it's a glimpse into the future of ramen.
Pro tip: The secret to Ginza Hachigo's exceptional ramen lies in its ingredients and cooking method. Chef Goto uses a blend of three different types of soy sauce, each aged for different periods, to create the base of his signature shoyu broth. This complex mixture is then simmered with a combination of chicken, pork bones, and seafood for over 12 hours, resulting in a broth that's incredibly deep and nuanced.
Step into The Pig & The Lady in Shibuya-ku, and you'll instantly feel the vibrant energy of Honolulu fused with the electric buzz of Tokyo. This place is special - it's a culinary celebration that bridges cultures and redefines comfort food.
As you enter the spacious 84-seat eatery (a rarity in space-conscious Tokyo), you're greeted by an ambiance that screams tropical chic. Lush foliage cascades from the ceiling, wicker chairs invite you to linger, and the warm glow of wooden light fixtures sets the perfect mood for a culinary adventure.
But it's the menu that truly sets The Pig & The Lady apart. Chef Andrew Le has masterfully woven together his Vietnamese heritage, Hawaiian upbringing, and Tokyo's cutting-edge food scene to create dishes that are as unique as they are delicious.
Take, for example, the Pho French Dip - a brilliant fusion that marries the classic Vietnamese soup with the beloved American sandwich. Tender slices of slow-cooked brisket are piled high on a crusty baguette, served alongside a steaming bowl of aromatic pho broth. Dip, bite, and prepare for flavor fireworks.
Or consider the Ahi Avocado Toast - a dish that sounds simple but delivers complex layers of flavor. Fresh, sushi-grade ahi tuna is diced and mixed with creamy avocado, then piled atop perfectly toasted bread. A sprinkle of furikake adds a umami punch that'll have you wondering why all avocado toast isn't made this way.
But the true showstopper? Le's Fried Chicken. These aren't your average wings - they're a crispy, juicy revelation. Doused in a tangy lemongrass sauce and showered with crushed peanuts, each bite is a perfect balance of crunch, heat, and Southeast Asian flair.
To round out your meal, don't miss the Portuguese donuts for dessert. These pillowy puffs of perfection are served with a scoop of house-made mango and coconut ice cream - a sweet nod to Hawaii's diverse culinary influences.
And let's not forget the drinks. From tropical-inspired cocktails that transport you straight to Waikiki Beach, to a curated selection of New World wines that pair beautifully with the bold flavors, the beverage program here is no afterthought.
The fusion of Peruvian and Japanese cuisines might seem unexpected, but it's a culinary love story over a century in the making. In 1899, the first Japanese immigrants arrived in Peru, bringing with them their culinary traditions and techniques. Over time, these two distinct food cultures began to intermingle, creating what's now known as Nikkei cuisine.
This culinary cross-pollination wasn't just confined to Peru. As Japanese-Peruvians returned to Japan, they brought with them a taste for Peruvian flavors, ingredients, and cooking styles. This gastronomic exchange has flourished in recent years, with Nikkei restaurants popping up across Tokyo, offering a unique blend of South American flair and Japanese precision.
Enter Maz, the brainchild of acclaimed chef Virgilio Martínez, nestled in the upscale Kioicho district of Tokyo. This intimate 25-seat restaurant isn't just riding the wave of Nikkei cuisine - it's pushing it to new, exciting shores.
As you step into Maz, you're immediately struck by the minimalist decor that seamlessly blends Peruvian and Japanese aesthetics. Earthen tones and natural materials create a calm backdrop for the culinary fireworks to come.
The tasting menu at Maz is nothing short of a gastronomic odyssey through Peru's diverse ecosystems. Each of the nine courses represents a different altitude or region of the country, from the Pacific coast to the Andes mountains to the Amazon rainforest.
What sets Maz apart is its commitment to what Martínez calls "flying seeds" - Peruvian plant varieties that have been cultivated in Japan for decades. This allows the restaurant to source over 80% of its ingredients locally while maintaining authentic Peruvian flavors.
One standout dish that embodies this philosophy is the fava bean pods stuffed with Japanese mountain vegetables, baked in a salt crust made with medicinal clay from the Andes. It's a perfect representation of Maz's ethos - Peruvian technique meets Japanese ingredients, resulting in something entirely new and exciting.
The beverage program at Maz is equally innovative. Alongside an impressive selection of South American wines, you'll find unique distillations from Martínez's research lab, Mater Iniciativa. Don't miss the chance to try one of their experimental spirits, like the sweet wine made from olluco, an Andean tuber.
At Maz, every meal is a journey - not just through Peru's diverse landscapes, but through the rich history of cultural exchange between Peru and Japan. It's a testament to the power of culinary fusion, and a must-visit for anyone seeking to experience the cutting edge of Tokyo's dynamic food scene.
The place is tiny - just seven seats around a counter. It's like eating in someone's really zen living room, all earthy tones and rough plaster walls. But the star of the show is the fire pit where Chef Yu Kunisue works his magic.
My first time there, the opener was this sashimi that had been lightly kissed by wood smoke. It was like nothing I'd ever tasted before - familiar, but with this whole new dimension. But the dish that really got me was the seared sumagatsuo. It's mackerel tuna, crispy on the outside, melt-in-your-mouth on the inside, with this bright sauce made from fermented tomato and green tea. Sounds weird, right? But trust me, it works.
But let's talk about the main event: the food. These guys are playing culinary 4D chess, following Buddhist principles that nix not just animal products, but also garlic and onions. It sounds like a recipe for bland city, but trust me, your taste buds are in for a shock.
They do this drink pairing too, which is worth splurging on. It's not just wine - you might get natural sake, weird (in a good way) cocktails, even house-made kombucha that'll make you rethink what kombucha can be.
Dinner is where they really flex their creative muscles. The veggie nigiri sushi isn't just good "for vegan food" - it's good, full stop. Each piece is a miniature work of art that proves you don't need fish to make stellar sushi.
By the time you stumble back down the narrow set of stairs you used to enter the restaurant, you're not just full - you're buzzing from the whole experience. It's more than just dinner. It's a whole night of surprises, all packed into one tiny room above the Shibuya streets.
Pro tip: When dining at Shizen, request the chef's special omakase menu. Chef Yu Kunisue is known for his creativity and skill with seasonal ingredients, often incorporating rare foraged items and unique flavor combinations. By opting for the omakase, you allow the chef to showcase his latest inspirations and the freshest ingredients available, ensuring a truly unique and memorable dining experience. Also, ask about the special beverage pairings that include natural wines and homemade kombuchas, perfectly curated to complement each course.
Chef Yusuke Namai is a man on a mission. He's not interested in flying in luxury ingredients from across the globe. Instead, he's turned his focus inward, diving deep into Japan's own backyard to source everything from heirloom vegetables to rare breeds of livestock.
The menu here changes faster than Tokyo's fashion trends, adapting daily to whatever Namai's network of small-scale farmers and fishermen can provide. One day you might be savoring a plate of charcoal-grilled Shamo chicken, a breed once prized for cockfighting but now making a culinary comeback. The next, you could be tasting your way through a rainbow of heirloom tomatoes, each variety bursting with flavors you never knew tomatoes could have.
But let's talk about the main event: the food. These guys are playing culinary 4D chess, following Buddhist principles that nix not just animal products, but also garlic and onions. It sounds like a recipe for bland city, but trust me, your taste buds are in for a shock.
The drink menu follows the same philosophy. Forget imported wines - here, you'll find an impressive selection of Japanese natural wines, craft sake, and even locally-brewed beers. Each is chosen to complement the day's menu, creating pairings that celebrate the best of Japanese terroir.
Shoto Lamp isn't flashy or trendy. It's not trying to be the next big thing in Tokyo's dining scene. Instead, it's a quiet revolution, a testament to the incredible depth and diversity of Japanese ingredients. It's the kind of place that reminds you why you fell in love with food in the first place. And in a city as culinarily rich as Tokyo, that's saying something.
Pro tip: Book a reservation for a late evening seating at Shoto Lamp to fully enjoy the intimate and relaxed atmosphere. Arriving later in the evening allows you to engage more with Chef Nobuhiro Kakinoki and his team, who often take the time to explain the inspiration and ingredients behind each dish. This personal interaction enhances the dining experience, giving you deeper insight into the seasonal and foraged ingredients used. Additionally, don't hesitate to explore the natural wine and sake pairings curated by the chef, which perfectly complement the unique flavors of each course.
I've given you the lowdown on ten of Tokyo's most impressive restaurants. And I even threw in a must-visit spot for good measure. From high-end sushi counters to innovative fusion spots, this city never stops pushing culinary boundaries.
But these places I've shared? They're just the tip of the iceberg. Tokyo's food scene is deep, diverse, and constantly evolving. It's a city that rewards the curious eater, whether you're splurging on a Michelin-starred meal or grabbing a quick bite from a 5-star street food vendor.
If this taste of Tokyo has whetted your appetite for more of Japan's culinary wonders, check out my other features on regional Japanese cuisines.
Remember, in Tokyo, every meal is a chance to experience something extraordinary. So keep an open mind, be willing to try new things, and most importantly, bring your appetite. Trust me, you're going to need it.
Which restaurant are you going to try first when you go to Japan? Shoot me an email and let me know. I'd love to hear from you! kelly@voyagesjapan.com
Kelly Browning is a design enthusiast and avid traveler who’s fallen head over heels for Japan. With an advanced degree in architecture and over 12 years in the fashion industry, Kelly’s career took her around the world, but it was Japan that truly captured her heart. Now, through a blog, newsletter, and YouTube channel, Kelly aims to inspire others to explore the beauty of Japan.
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